Essaouira

As we crossed the sand, he told me about his plans. In two years, he wants to start a camel milk business.

He spoke about it the way entrepreneurs everywhere speak about their future companies, with equal parts confidence and hope.

Then he told me about his fiancée. Three years ago, a French tourist came to Morocco and she stayed. They've built a life together, but lately he's been worried.

Not because she's French. Not because she lives far away. Because she doesn't believe in God. The surprising part was that Mustafa wasn't trying to convert her.

"I don't want her to be Muslim," he told me. "I just want her to believe in something."

Then he looked down at the sand. He looked so sad I wanted to reach out and touch his shoulder. Here was a man with a business plan, nine camels, and a woman he loved, discovering that some things are easier to guide than others.

I told him I'd be sure to include that in my TripAdvisor review. He laughed.

I left Essaouira with a sunburn and a smile, rooting for Mustafa's camel milk business and his engagement in equal measure.

Though if I've learned anything, it's that you can persuade someone to ride a camel. Belief is a little more complicated.